How to Teach Your Puppy Basic Commands? A Practical Step-by-Step Guide

A Maltipoo puppy usually arrives in a new home at around 8 weeks of age. The first days should be dedicated to getting accustomed to the home – but this does not mean that you have to wait to start training. Short, positive exercises can begin very early, as soon as the puppy calmly responds to its name and is not overwhelmed by the new environment – for some, this is already the first day, for others a few days later. More important than the specific date is the puppy's state, not the calendar. This guide shows how to teach your puppy basic commands step by step based on positive reinforcement.

Teaching commands is not just about obedience – it is a common language through which the puppy understands what you expect from it, and you understand when it needs help. The commands "sit", "stay", and "come" have real significance for safety: "stay" can help keep the dog in a safe situation, although near the street, the basic safety measure remains the leash, and "come" allows you to call it away from something dangerous during a walk before it instinctively reacts.

Regular, short exercises also build a bond – the puppy learns that contact with you is pleasant and predictable. Such positive, predictable communication can support the puppy's confidence, although mastering commands alone does not guarantee that the dog will never be afraid of new situations – this is primarily influenced by extensive socialization, not obedience.

The following five commands are enough to get started and cover most everyday situations. Do not overload one session with several new tasks at once – but you can teach different commands in parallel, practicing each separately in short sessions.

• Sit
• Stay
• Come
• Lie down
• Loose leash walking

"Sit" is usually the first command and the easiest to teach. It is a behavior that can be used as an alternative to jumping or excitement – for example, at the door or while preparing a bowl – but it is not a "calming button": it helps because it gives the puppy a clear task to perform, not because the command itself physiologically calms them down. "Stay" teaches self-control and is useful wherever you want the dog to wait: at open doors, on walks, during visits from guests.

"Come" is a safety command, which is why we teach it most carefully – although no training provides a hundred percent guarantee of response in every situation, so a leash and a fenced area remain important regardless of progress in learning. "Lie down" and walking on a loose leash come after mastering the first three commands.

Before you start, prepare what really affects the results: appropriately sized rewards, a calm place, and sessions tailored to how long your specific puppy can maintain attention. If play is interrupted by nipping at your fingers, treat teaching your puppy not to bite hands as a separate task rather than adding more commands.

The size of treats matters more than it seems. Use very small pieces, suitable for the size of the puppy – a standard pet store treat is a substantial portion of calories for a few-week-old puppy weighing just over a kilogram, and a full dog quickly loses motivation to work. Break treats into tiny pieces and keep them handy in a small bag to reward the puppy immediately after correct behavior – noticeable delays make it harder for them to connect the reward with what they just did.

The training area should initially be quiet and familiar – ideally the same room where the puppy already feels safe. From there, it’s worth gradually moving on: a more challenging room in the house, then a calm outdoor spot, and only finally to places with more stimuli. You don’t have to wait until the command works flawlessly – it’s enough that the puppy starts to understand the exercise in a calmer environment to try a more difficult step.

This is where new owners often make a mistake: rigidly sticking to a specific number of minutes from the internet. In practice, the signals from the puppy itself are more important than the clock – yawning, looking away, losing interest in the treat. The session should end before these signals appear, and it’s better to repeat it several times throughout the day than to conduct one long session, after which the puppy is already tired or bored halfway through.

Teaching the 'sit' command is usually the first step in training a Maltipoo puppy – it’s simple but important, as it builds good habits and a pattern of cooperation for future commands.

1. **Choosing a location**: start in a quiet, familiar room, free from distractions – so that the puppy can focus on you.

2. **Encouraging to sit**: hold a very small piece of treat in your hand, attract the puppy's attention, and raise your hand just above its head. The natural reflex will be for the dog to sit down to get a better view of the treat.

3. **Giving the command**: at the moment the puppy sits, say the word "sit" once, in the same tone as always. If there are more people at home, agree on one word and one gesture together before you start – for the puppy, "sit", "sit down", and "take a seat" are three different signals, so mixing them only prolongs the learning.

4. **Positive reinforcement**: when the puppy follows the command, immediately give it a treat and praise it in a warm tone. The quicker the reward follows the behavior, the easier it will be for the puppy to associate it with that behavior.

5. **Repetition**: return to the exercise several times a day, in short sessions – finish before the puppy loses interest. Frequent, short repetitions reinforce the command more effectively than one long session.

**Common mistakes**: the most frequent one is repeating the command several times in a row ("sit... sit... SIT") – the puppy learns that the word only gains meaning after the third time. Say "sit" once, wait a few seconds, and if he doesn't respond, simply guide him with a treat without repeating the word. Also, do not use punishments when the dog does not follow the command – focus solely on rewarding good attempts.

Teaching the command "sit" is a process that requires patience and consistency. The pace at which your puppy masters it depends on him – consistency in practice is more important than the time taken.

The command "stay" increases the dog's safety and enhances its self-control. It only makes sense when "sit" is already working reliably – we start from the sitting position.

1. **Choose a calm place**: preferably the same room where you practiced "sit", so the puppy feels confident.

2. **Start with "sit"**: ask the puppy to sit, just like in the previous exercise.

3. **Give the command**: say "stay" in a firm, calm voice while showing the "stop" gesture with your hand. Calm body language is more important here than the tone of your voice – the puppy will sense anxiety and will start to get up.

4. **Start with time, not distance**: teach the puppy to hold the position for a very short moment while standing right next to it – before you try to step away even a foot. Gradually increase the waiting time in small increments, rewarding each time the puppy stays in position.

5. **Only then increase the distance**: when the puppy is calmly waiting in place for a longer moment, start increasing the distance – first half a step, then a full step. Change only one parameter at a time: either time, or distance, or the level of distractions around. Combining several at once usually results in the puppy getting up before you can reward it.

6. **Reward in place**: approach the puppy and reward him where he stays, instead of calling him to you for the reward – otherwise, he learns to get up too soon.

7. **Practice daily with short sessions**: a few times a day, gradually changing locations so that the puppy understands that the command applies everywhere, not just in the living room.

Common mistakes when teaching 'stay':

• Simultaneously increasing time and distance – if the puppy starts to get confused, return to the last level where it succeeded, and change only one parameter at a time.
• Calling the dog to you for a reward instead of approaching it with the reward.
• If the puppy gets up too soon, do not scold it and do not immediately repeat the same difficulty – lower the requirements (shorter time or smaller distance) and reward the next successful attempt.
• Practicing every time with a different word or gesture when more than one person from the household is training.

"Come" should always start at home or in a closed, safe place – never immediately on a walk without a leash. This is one of the more common mistakes new owners make: since the command works in the living room, they assume it will also work in the park, where the puppy is distracted by literally everything.

Call the puppy by name, use an encouraging tone of voice, and say "come" at the moment he starts to approach – not before, to avoid weakening the command's significance with calls that yield no results. When he comes over, reward him immediately with a treat and praise.

• Call the puppy by name to get his attention.
• Say "come" only when he starts to approach.
• Reward with a treat or praise for every arrival, even slow ones.
• Repeat the exercise in different rooms before trying outside.

Before you try calling your puppy off-leash outside, the command should work reliably at home and in a fenced yard. During walks, before that happens, use a long leash. Choose equipment that suits your dog – if you are unsure whether a harness or collar is better, consult a trainer or veterinarian. A long leash gives the puppy freedom of movement, but does not provide full control in situations where something interests them more than you – therefore, in places where a mistake could be dangerous, the leash remains more important than the command itself, no matter how well the puppy knows it.

A common mistake is also waiting too long for a response and raising your voice when the puppy does not react immediately. If they do not come, try again with a more encouraging tone or squat down and pat your leg – do not chase them or yell, as this teaches that running away from you is a game.

You can comfortably start with the 'sit' position if the puppy already knows it – this is one of the easier paths to this command, although it is not the only possible order.

1. **Start with 'sit'**: ask the puppy to sit – this is the starting point for further movement.

2. **Guide the treat down**: holding the treat near the puppy's nose, slowly lower your hand towards the floor, between its paws. Following the reward, the dog will naturally lie down.

3. **Give the command**: at the moment the puppy lies down, say "down" – just like with other commands, once and in the same tone.

4. **Reward immediately**: praise and reward as soon as the puppy touches its elbows to the floor – do not wait for it to lie down perfectly.

5. **If the puppy stands up instead of lying down**: this is a common reaction in puppies who prefer to follow the hand upwards rather than downwards. Try to guide the treat more slowly and closer to the dog's body, directing it more to the side than down – over time, most puppies begin to understand this motion.

A common mistake is moving too quickly to physically guiding the puppy's back with your hand to 'push' it down – for a small dog, this can be uncomfortable and cause resistance. It's better to give the treat movement more time than to reach for physical contact.

This is a daily skill, different from the formal "heel" used in dog sports – the goal is to keep the leash loose between you and the puppy during a regular walk, rather than maintaining a perfect position at your side. If fear interrupts the walk rather than an unfamiliar command, start with responding to fear of people, dogs and new places.

1. **Practice first without going for a walk**: start at home or in the garden, where there are fewer distractions. Attach the leash and just stand still – if the puppy pulls on it, stop and wait until the leash relaxes before taking another step.

2. **Reward a loose leash, not a specific position**: when the puppy walks next to you with a loose leash, reward him – regardless of whether he is walking right by your side or half a step ahead.

3. **Stop at tension**: if the puppy pulls towards something interesting, stop and wait. Only move on when the leash is loose again – this teaches him that pulling doesn’t lead anywhere.

4. **Gradually increase difficulty**: start in a quiet place, then move to a calm street, and only finally to areas with more distractions – other dogs, people, smells.

A common mistake is continuing the walk despite a tight leash – for the puppy, this is a reward for pulling, even if the owner scolds them verbally. Consistently stopping works slower at first, but brings lasting results faster than pulling on the leash or raising your voice.

Consistency is the most important factor in progress – a few short sessions a day work better than one long session once a week, as a young puppy simply cannot maintain attention for long.

Choose treats that your dog particularly likes, and reward immediately after the command is performed. Vary the types of rewards – sometimes a treat, sometimes praise and petting, sometimes a short play with a favorite toy – to keep the puppy's interest for longer.

• Establish a schedule of short, regular sessions instead of rare, long ones.
• Use a variety of rewards to maintain the puppy's interest.
• Change the training location once the command works at home.
• Watch for signs of fatigue – yawning, looking away, sitting to the side – and end the session before they appear.

Learning basic commands is a process spread over weeks, not just one weekend. Short sessions tailored to your puppy's attention span, consistent words used by the whole family, and consistent rewards yield better results than long, infrequent training.

Once all five commands – sit, stay, come, lie down, and loose leash walking – are reliably performed at home, it’s time to practice them in new locations and with greater distractions: on walks, around other dogs, in a pet store. Group classes for puppies are a good next step – they combine training with controlled socialization.